City Guide: Bakradze presents Tbilisi

Bakradze is one of three aliases used by Georgian (but currently a Parisian dweller) Gacha, full name Gacha Bakradze. If you have come across the producer, DJ and multi-instrumentalist before, you’ll know that his music encompasses many styles and influences, making it difficult to box any one of his personas within a particular label. Gacha revealed during a DJBroadcast interview that he produces under his Bakradze moniker mainly during periods of extensive Djing. This reflects the immense dance culture in electronic music today, circling mostly in the genres of house and techno. Releases such as the Letter EP on The Crescent imprint has echoes of Four Tet in two-step shuffling ‘Letter’ and even details post-rock guitar riffs in the techier number ‘Kiss Me Again’; which stands in contrast with the dark, swinging, bass-heavy Room EP via 2nd Drop Records.

Gacha, releasing much music with Apollo Records, exhibits a far mellower side to his personality. None more so than When the Watchmen Saw the Light, an ambient record from early last year which treated us to Gacha’s guitar playing and tender vocals from Natalie ‘TBA’ Beridze, yet also reminiscent of Burial at times. Winter Flags is another side project of Gacha’s, with an ethereal nature which Boards of Canada and Múm enthusiasts will enjoy for its ardent and chilled vibes.

We were lucky enough to premiere ‘Quiet Loop‘ on the forthcoming debut release from Gacha’s new label Transfigured Time, co-run with childhood friends Ash (a young DJ from Tsibli) and Serga (VJ and designer). He also let on that the label name was in fact inspired by the short film Ritual in Transfigured Time by Maya Deren, but clarified that the inspiration ended with the name. Having seen it before posing the question, we’re happy to accept that without question (you’ll have to check it to get the idea).

In the build-up to the release next week, we got Bakradze to take us on a virtual tour around Tbilisi, giving us a definitive guide of the best record stores, coffee shops, music venues and viewpoints of his city. Alongside this, Gacha has recorded an exclusive mix of 100% local music to accompany his guide, for total Tbilisi immersion.

Favourite place to listen to live music?
There are quite a few places, cafes mostly, where they play live music, but sometimes it gets annoying when bands play cover songs of famous bands all the time. I think it’s mostly the owner’s fault though. I usually go to Tartine, a French café, on one of the main central squares in Tbilisi, they have an upright bass and accordion duo playing frequently, and other bands. Sometimes we have some nice jazz musicians performing at Tbilisi Jazz Festival. For example, we had Roy Ayers last year.

Best sound system?
Can’t say we really have a good sound system anywhere. They are decent, much better than a year or two ago. Some local club owners and promoters are working to make it better.

Favourite outdoor party?
There are quite a few good outdoor parties in Tbilisi as the city is surrounded by forests and two lakes. Our friend Temo Machavariani organized a bunch of picnics at Turtle Lake called WAS Picnic, which is one of our favorites.

Favourite place to escape the hub of the city?
Home, or at a friend’s place. Tbilisi is a very routine-driven city so going outside of the city is also essential. Nearby examples are Lisi Lake, Turtle Lake and Tbilisi Sea.

Favourite view in Tbilisi?
Any elevation point in Tbilisi actually, and there are quite a few. Funicular, Turtle Lake, Old Town, a view from Betlemi Street Park, and so on.

Where will you find the friendliest, most interesting local to have a chat with?
Bauhaus Café in the Old Town, where many young Georgians gather for a drink. Foreigners also like to visit this place. And, I don’t know where else… Other small cafes run by young poor people, or just grab anyone in the street!

Where would you go to see another medium of art, excluding music?
Cinemas, galleries, photo exhibitions. Centre of Contemporary Art (CCA) in Tbilisi is does interesting events all the time.

Is there a person, dead or alive, who encapsulates Tbilisi for you?
Merab Mamardashvili (1930-1990), the Georgian philosopher.

Best traditional Georgian restaurant, and what would you order?
I don’t really go to Georgian restaurants much, but Zakhar-Zakharich is alright I guess. People say they have the best khinkali in town. I’d usually get that, some roasted mushrooms on a hot clay plate, mtsvadi, beer, the usual stuff. If you want some junk food, you should try Gldani Shawarma, in a district far, far away. All kinds of people gather here, no matter their social, economic, religious or any other status, to enjoy one big-ass shawarma together. It’s an interesting experience.

Favourite place for a meal in general?
Tartine has a great croque madame and onion soup. I haven’t even tasted a better one in Paris. A Chinese restaurant on Gagarini Square, a Mexican restaurant called Boorito (not the best Mexican but the only normal one in Tbilisi), a decent Indian restaurant on Kandelaki street, a burger bar near Gegeshidze Garden, Localino Pizzeria for pizza, not bad pasta and seafood soups. There’s also Prospero’s Books if you want to just chill, drink coffee and read some books.

Favourite coffee shop?
We don’t have any.

Favourite record shop?
Unfortunately we don’t have any record shops either, but you can find old, vintage vinyl at a flea market bazaar we have here called The Dry Bridge.

Place to experience something uniquely Tbilisi?
The Old Town, for history. The outskirts of Tbilisi’s industrial soviet parts are interesting to see also. Living in Tbilisi by itself is a unique and unusual experience for many.

Best and worst thing about living in Tbilisi?
Best thing: I don’t know, friends obviously. Stuff is relatively cheap. Also, it’s a big city but still feels like a small city. You can go around by foot to most places. Worst thing: shit political and economic situations most of the time. Traffic, and people parking their cars on sidewalks. The architecture is not cared for. The Old City is almost in ruins and instead of restoring those beautiful buildings, they’re tearing them down to build new glass cube futuristic crap. Aaand… there are no record shops.

Could you tell us a bit about the mix you’ve made for us?
The mix consists of only Georgian music. I recorded it in my flat in Paris. It features my track which is forthcoming on Apollo Records, and a track by HVL which is released on our label. There are contemporary composers, as well as some old tunes. If we acknowledge that it’s only forty minutes, I think it’s enough for you to have a general feel of Georgian music.

And finally, who are some of your favourite up-and-coming producers in Tbilisi?
My friend’s music which I played in the mix. HVL (aka Gigi Jikia), David Datunashvili (aka Jordan Blacksmith), and more.

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